Flogging

Flogging is a human sexual practice in which one person (the bottom) is struck (usually repeatedly) by another person (the top) with a whip or flogger  It is considered a form of BDSM. Flagellation or flogging is the act of methodically beating or whipping (Latin flagellum, “whip”) for the sexual gratification of either or both parties. Specialized implements for it include floggers, rods, switches, the cat o’ nine tails and the sjambok.



Flogger: The Tool
A flogger is comprised of a handle with many strands of material attached to create the fall or business end of the whip. It can be made of almost any material.

The best type of whip to start with is a light suede or horse hair “flogger” or “cat of nine tails”. A flogger can provide a wide range of sensations with a minimal amount of risk. A good flogger can be purchased at most sex shops or you can make one in the comfort of your own home (see appendix for flogger making plans). When buying a flogger, insist on testing each model you are considering on a bare part of your own body such as your own arm. Buy the one that feels best, as opposed to the one that looks best. Your first flogger should be gentle. You can always buy bigger nastier floggers once you know what you are doing.

Safety Issues

Breaking the Skin

Although an erotic flogging is rarely bloody, many kinds of flogging implements can open the surface of the skin, either by cutting or scraping previously undamaged skin or by causing the weakened skin over a bruise to break. Thin whips such as bullwhips, tightly braided cats, and thin-tailed quirts are most likely to cut, nylon-tipped whips and rubber floggers to scrape (abrade), and heavy, wide-tailed rubber or leather floggers and cats to bruise, but similar effects can also be caused by other implements.

The chief danger from breaking the skin is infection, which can occur in various ways. For the bottom, the most serious risk is becoming infected with a disease through blood or lymph (a colorless body fluid that collects in bruises and other wounds and can be exuded from a cut or scrape even if there is no visible bleeding) left on the flogging implement from a previous scene if it was inadequately cleaned (or not cleaned at all). Less seriously, an open wound is vulnerable to airborne viruses and bacteria and contaminants spread by hands and other body parts as well as the implement itself, so all cuts and scrapes should be treated with disinfectant (see Preventing Infection below).

Infectious agents might also be transferred from an open wound to the flogging implement, where they could be picked up later by the top, or by other bottoms if it is not cleaned before reuse. In a very heavy flogging, blood may spatter from some blows, but the droplets will usually land elsewhere on the bottom’s body or very close by and are unlikely to cause problems by landing on the top or spectators.

The possibility of infection with HIV, hepatitis or other communicable diseases must be taken very seriously, but it should also not be exaggerated to the point of paranoia. In most cases only a tiny amount of blood or lymph is exuded, and even less is actually picked up by the business end of the whip, cat, or flogger. Moreover, the HIV microbe in particular dies quickly when exposed to air, though the hepatitis viruses and some others are much hardier. If you follow reasonable precautions in using and cleaning flogging equipment and use standard first-aid procedures in treating whatever wounds do occur, the risk should be remote or nonexistent.

Whip cuts can also cause scarring. Unwanted scarring can be reduced by proper care for wounds, but the risk cannot be completely eliminated in any especially heavy scene.

Bruises and Hematomas

A bruise results when blood vessels are broken under the skin. Most bruises are caused by the rupture of tiny capillaries just under the surface. The discoloration and tenderness to touch comes from the accumulation of blood, lymph, and waste products at the site of the wound as the body reacts to heal itself. Most simple bruises are not dangerous and will go away in time without treatment. More serious is a hematoma which results from bleeding between deeper layers of the skin or flesh and can range in size from about 1 to 12cm (0.5″-5″) in diameter. On the surface, a hematoma looks like a very bad bruise. The site will be hard and hot to the touch, as well as very tender and painful, and it may be puffy. Small hematomas, like bruises, can heal by themselves if they’re not abused further. Large ones can be very dangerous, since the pooled blood clots and hardens, putting pressure on adjacent nerves, undamaged blood vessels, and even internal organs. They need to be treated with medication to dissolve the clotting safely.

Psychological Trauma

An incompetent flogging could panic or terrorize the bottom, and even a technically expert flogging may go well beyond a particular bottom’s limits. Such emotional wounds may make it difficult for the bottom to enjoy subsequent SM action, and they can even generate psychic stress that impairs other areas of life. Granted, some tops deliberately try to instill terror, and some bottoms get off on it, but terrorization is an extremely hazardous technique. It should be used only by tops who know exactly what they’re doing and how to deal with the results. Tops should also be prepared to deal with panic, which is almost always unintentional, by being able to calm the bottom down.

Other Damage

While cuts, scrapes, and bruises are occupational hazards and sometimes even the desired outcome of even the most impeccable flogging, bad technique or a missed shot, can result in damage to parts of the body that should not be involved at all, such as the eyes and the rest of the face, the nerves and blood vessels in the joints (especially the elbows and knees), the spine, and internal organs (especially the kidneys). Damage in these areas can be so serious, even life-threatening, that you should not think in terms of minimizing it. Rather, make every effort to avoid it altogether by following the safety rules below.

dominantguide.com/encyclopedia/flogging/

Flogging

Part I – WHAT to use

A ‘flogger’ shall remain for the moment ‘any flexible many-tailed striking tool where the tails are simple strips of leather or similar substances, designed for use on the human body’. In short, not bullwhips, braided cat-o-nines, crops, scourges, thud-toys and such, simply floggers. A braided cat is similar to a flogger in many respects, yet has a distinct ‘feel’, both these and floggers with knotted ends are left for another discussion.

As floggers were less available in former days, many people made their own in various styles and weights. Even if you are not doing so, some basic principles of design might help you select a superior one from the regrettably large supply of the other sort. I shall not include specific designs, the subject has been done to death before, and they are readily available elsewhere.



Design Notes

For any given force, the smaller the contact area that force is concentrated in, the greater the potential for damage. Think of a knife-edge as the extreme case. This is why quality flogger tails have rounded edges and tips; although sharp edges require less work and are less expensive, rounded edges are preferable.

The wider the tail, the more surface area to be forced through the air, and again, the more lands at once on the skin. As a general rule for the same material, thin tails ‘sting’, wide tails ‘thud’. Thin, rounded thong tails sting much more than 5/8 inch wide flat tails, for example.

If all things are equal, the more tails a flogger has, the slower it travels, and the longer the tails are, the more leverage is gained. Both of the above make a flogger heavier, but the longer tails can make it disproportionately more difficult to control, therefore many of the ‘standard’ floggers have tail lengths between 15 and 22 inches. It is possible to do quite interesting things with a long flogger, such as laying it down an entire back at once, but this is not recommended for beginners as it can take serious practice to do well. Very short floggers have special uses for close work, one nipple at a time, that sort of thing. Floggers with perhaps 15 to 25 tails are average, twice that makes a heavier version of the same design.

For safety, flogger tails must remain fixed to the end of the handle; this region is where the most stress occurs in use. A good covering knot will help reduce this strain, and keep the tails together. The handle must work with your hand, not against it, neither too large nor small for a proper grip, and a knot or swelling near the end of the flogger serves to prevent slippage. Short handles are better for control, longer handles provide more leverage. The weight of the handle must feel ‘right’ with the tails (something one must feel, not read about. If the sellers will not allow a cautious swing of prospective purchases, find another shop).

Beyond weight, width and length, the materials matter most. I have personal experience only with the following, perhaps others may share their knowledge as well. A selection from the below provides a range of severity and feelings from ‘did you start yet?’ to ‘OMG!’. Again in general, the softer and lighter the material, the safer it is (the harder/longer it may be used without risk), and the softer it feels. As ever, *the RESPONSIBLE TOP TESTS each implement on himself before it touches a bottom, and checks for breakage or other safety problems before each use.

Material List

An ounce or two of loosely twisted cotton wool in a pillowcase folded lengthwise; this and the next two have been useful for those with no experience with flogging, yet much interest. Quite safe, I originally tested mine by repeated strikes to my own face with no effect.

1. Chamois – a more permanent version of the above, a 3/8 inch tail width 20-tail is a specialized tool for flogging either a complete novice or one who prefers nearly no sensation. Noise, a very light skin-level sensation, and nothing else, tested as above. Of course it may also cause her to look back at you and ask if that is all you plan on doing….
2. Fabric- silk and other softer fabrics can be made into floggers. Avoid fraying of edges by sewing the fabric into closed tubes, ironing each tube flat, then sewing the flat sides together along the long axis. Similar to chamois, more decorative colors available, and many fabrics are washable.
3. Deerskin- soft and caressing, a tiny bit of sting, a bit of thud, and little else. Unless one is hitting exceptionally hard, a deerskin flogger can be used for a very long time without any notable skin reactions beyond a light flush. My personal favorite for light play or the less experienced.
4. Light Nylon Cordage (1/8 inch diameter for a start)- Take 15 loops 34 inches long (circumference), tying them together in a knot at one end. Cut the other end (tail length now perhaps 15 inches), fray the cut ends and attach to a handle. Two sensations, a very light one from brushing with the tips alone, and a heavier one from the non-frayed section. Simple to clean, quite inexpensive, and different weights of cord are readily available.
5. Elk-hide- heavier than Deerskin, yet soft and compressible, almost entirely thud. A lovely flogger for a slow building scene, very easy to relax into, and can be used with astonishing force with little risk of harm.
6. The next three are varieties of cowhide, the ‘standard’ leather. These are not specific cuts or tanning terms, but are classes of weight and type.
7. Suede- in the lighter varieties, slightly harder than Elk, in the heaviest, just below the thick Top-grain below. Many floggers are made from various suede ‘splits’, these are inexpensive and simple to work. More thud and more sting than those above, may mark if swung sharply.
8. Top-grain leather- smooth leathers create less friction than suede, yet usually feel more ‘sting-y’ on the skin. Available in many weights, from light garment leathers to heavy saddle leathers, the more flexible varieties are recommended.
9. Oil tanned thick leather- thick, heavy, and spongy leather, less flexible than thinner skins. Feels rather like an extremely heavy Elk as it compresses, yet a far more ‘serious’ thud.
10. Bison- Interesting rough grain, heavy, rather inflexible, unless careful attention is taken the edges may cut the skin. Not a material for the beginner, but certainly something to use if desired.
11. Rubber-flexible, yet quite ‘harsh’ feeling, stings rather like a thong flogger, leaves immediate marks. Different weight to air resistance ratio than any leather I am aware of. Exceptionally simple to clean.
12. Horsehair- Extreme sting with no thud, entirely skin-level sensation of a very intense and itching sort. It is possible to break skin with horsehair, and it creates deceptively intense stinging at a very light touch. Cleanliness and body fluid precautions are required here, IMO.

Additionally, most of these have tactile and scent qualities that may attract some, with the exception of the pillowcase, fabric, nylon, and the oil-tanned leather (much of which smells rather nasty). All except the pillowcase may be made into floggers that look rather nice, and all of the above are now available ready-made through shops and catalogues.

Technique

Much has been discussed, experienced, debated, and counter-debated here and elsewhere on this personal topic, but as this is intended as a generic suggestion for the beginner, perhaps there is a possibility we might avoid the usual flame-war-of-the-moment? Of course it would be wonderful if others would add their own ideas to this basic outline (subtle hint).

Part II – WHERE to flog

WHERE NOT to flog

As ‘flogging’ is something that covers much by way of different activities, I have taken the liberty of separating it into ‘light’ (entirely sting, no deep tissue effects), and ‘heavy’ (sting and/or thud, reaching and jarring deep tissue). *Hint* it is impossible to do ‘heavy’ flogging with a 20-tail chamois flogger, and quite difficult to do ‘light’ flogging with anything over deerskin in the materials progression cited above (with the exception of horsehair, again a sting-only material).

Of course all of these are merely physical *possibilities* rated solely on my own opinions of (relative) safety, all limits and preferences of top and bottom must also be considered.

Where not to flog *under any circumstances*

For obvious safety reasons: the face, head, neck, the fingers and toes, or over healing skin (if you want it to ever heal).

Where to flog *extremely* lightly and carefully if at all

The palms and back of the hands, over any joint, the lower front and back and sides between the top of the pelvis and the lower ribs (kidneys and other internal organs), the spine, the tops and bottoms of the feet. Use a gentle brushing motion rather than a striking one, tips of a *light* stinging instrument only, such as the chamois or horsehair above.

N.B. Both feet and hands contain many tiny bones, once broken, these rarely heal well. Joints do not respond well to stress internal or external. Crippling is neither safe nor sane, and unless one has an X-ray machine at call one cannot tell. Internal organs are more fragile than one might think, avoid thud entirely in their area. Many people have particular problems with body areas as well, do attempt the above *very* lightly indeed if at all!

Where to flog lightly

Lower legs, arms, inner arms, breasts, genitals (skin is more fragile there), upper shoulders (accuracy), top of buttocks near spine, the muscular ridge on both sides of the spine (accuracy), the ribs where not protected by muscle.

N.B. There is some evidence that ‘thud’ on the female breast is not advisable for reasons of health, nipples are far better suited to strong stimulation. The top of the buttocks protect the coccyx, a small and fragile triangular bone at the base of the spine, avoid striking between the upper buttocks.

Where to flog ‘heavily’

Buttocks, upper back on each side of the spine, thighs, lower shoulders. These areas are principally composed of strong bones protected by muscle tissue and a fatty layer, any other organs present are reasonably protected. There are reasons for these traditional areas being so traditional, they reduce the likelihood of major damage, making a mistake.

Position Considerations

Body position affects the position of both skin and muscles. If someone is bent over, the muscles of the rear lengthen and are not as thick, so the muscles themselves no longer protect in the same way. If the skin is stretched as well, it will feel more than it would if relaxed. Flogging someone who is standing unsupported may lead to falling, and seems foolish given the known physiological and psychological effects (‘going away’). Standing bondage changes without warning to partial suspension if someone faints, plan for that possibility.

Part III – HOW to flog?

Technique Repertoire

The more ways one knows to do an action, the more effects may be created, and the less one’s arm aches afterwards. Varying the motions has a good effect for top and bottom. Practice the following until you can do them from various directions and speeds, they all feel and work differently. Knowing the techniques is only one part, knowing which to use and when is beyond my ability to suggest in a post.

Swinging Styles

I know of four basic ways to end a stroke of any force:

The tails land ‘flat’, with all of the force hitting at once (the tails either bounce off or drop almost vertically after this).

• The tails swing ‘through’, with the some part of the tips hitting and moving past the target area. From there, you may stop them (see ‘Accuracy-’ below), or use some elliptical pattern to bring them round again, such as vertical or horizontal figure-8, circle, and the like.
• The tail tips strike, go past, then immediately return via a swift spinning motion. If fast enough, this can seem continuous and the light, sharp touch has some sensational advantages.
• The tails are snapped or ‘whipped’ for a smaller point of stimulation that is more discreet and feels ‘sharper’.
• The tails land all at once on the body in a strongly forward motion resembling a punch or push more than a swing. Difficult to describe, and not as common, a hard thud stroke.
• Each of these and all their variations may be primarily accomplished by wrist motion alone, or with arm and wrist moving together, this depends on your strength and the effect you seek. A properly balanced flogger requires less effort, and may be used for a longer time with less fatigue.

Skill

I would like to add my voice to  bad technique is simply inexcusable; although we are all fallible. Misplacing a stroke is not something to be taken lightly. There is indeed an art to the physical act of flogging. This may be learned as any other physical art, by observation, thought, and practice.

Practice in the air will teach you the balance of a flogger, but there is no substitute for actual impact. I suggest a velvet pillow, and another person suggested suspending it in a way that allowed for movement. This works nicely, a safe and useful simulation. If you rarely find velvet pillows strewn about, a towel wrapped round a pillow will serve the same purpose, you will see the path of the flogger tails quite nicely in the nap of the fabric. When you are able to land all the tails in one area on the pillow, practice moving that aiming point about until you know exactly where it will land each time. Now practice varying the speed, pace and strength of the blows without sacrificing that accuracy. When you have that in balance, try these variations on your own leg, get the feel of that specific instrument, *then* consider using it on the willing form of another.

Accuracy

A flogger (as opposed to a crop or whip) ‘flops around more’, it naturally covers a wider area and is more difficult to control. If one avoids any spin on the handle, the first stroke may be accurate with the tails close together. Unfortunately the next ones tend to be less so unless some care is taken with the tails between strokes. The tails may be caught in the free hand between strokes, allowed to wrap gently on the top’s torso or leg to gather them together, or hang straight down between strokes. Any of these options will make the next stroke more accurate as the tails will at least start together. It is possible to stop them in mid-air as well, but more difficult to cause them to swing together. With practice, a well-made flogger that is 2 inches in diameter with the tails gathered together may be precisely placed within a 3 to 4 inch target path.

As a suggestion for beginners, start with the bottom reclining face down and the top kneeling or standing a-straddle, thus allowing gravity to assist in the guidance of the tails.

Swinging at a body part that protrudes ensures accuracy. The buttocks of a standing bottom whose entire front is pressed against a rigid support are a classic example of this, a straight side-to-side swing with the tips of a flogger can strike only the intended area, leaving the lower back and upper thighs untouched. Costuming may help as well, certain corsets may provide some protection for the kidneys, and may act as a sort of armor against mishap.

Wrapping

If the middle section of tails strikes first on a rounded ‘edge’ of the body, and the tips ‘wrap’ following the curve, the tips actually accelerate far more than the original swing (physics, try it on something inanimate and see). This is ‘wraparound’, and is usually a bad thing, causing inadvertent hard blows to areas one did not intend to touch at all, or ruining the controlled stroke one did intend. Keeping the flogger handle the same distance away from the skin as you did in practice will help here, as will being very careful to plan where the tips will fall at each stroke, avoiding curved edges to wrap around.

Being ‘tip conscious’ is the best way to avoid wraparound, but placing a pillow to protect the side of a reclining bottom works as a temporary solution for those who have this problem (works neatly with ‘whippy’ canes and crops as well).

Part IV – Flogging “In Scene”

How Often?

An average of one stroke every few seconds often proves best, with the exception of the spinning technique above, a fast version of which will seem constant. This ‘blow-rest-blow’ allows processing time to feel each sensation, and this rhythm once established may easily be changed for effect. No doubt some people will differ with me on this, but I maintain that it is a suitable pace to maintain in many cases. Increased speed near the end is also popular, and pacing oneself early on will allow for that.

The slowly building endorphin encouragement

Start slowly and lightly, begin by placing the flogger on the skin, holding the tail tips in one hand and the handle in the other, moving slowly to and fro on the skin. Then a slow caress with the tips for a bit, using more and more of the tails in a soft motion, building the movement into a partial swing, then a full swing. Vary placement gradually, work up and down the body in a methodical pattern with few surprises. When changing to a ‘harder’ flogger, repeat the above ‘accustomization’ process in miniature, the ideal being that although the actual force applied increases markedly, the ‘feeling’ remains much the same, matching the growing ability of the bottom to enjoy the increasing sensations. In a person looking for this, it is often possible to cause a ‘flying’ sensation of complete relaxation, buoyed by trust and natural reactions of the body to slowly increasing stimulation, with little or no feeling of actual ‘pain’.

The overwhelming sensation

More of a ‘hard’ style than the above, to take a bottom past the ‘comfortable’ area into one more likely to push her strongly. Useful for ‘sensation overload’ and for those who seek a more ‘painful’ feeling. Beginning as above, vary the speed and intensity of the blows much more, pushing more, being less predictable. Work upper body and lower at seemingly random times, not allowing the bottom to grow used to the sensation before moving on. When changing instruments, do so with less subtlety, let her feel the change as an increase in intensity. Should she enjoy both sting and thud, use these interchangeably as well, surprise is often more effective than merely increasing the power of blows.

Emotional and other considerations (IMO)

A few suggestions in this admittedly most subjective area. A flogging of even the gentlest sort may have exceptionally strong effects on both participants; leaving time and energy to ‘wind down’ at the end of the session is, in my view, a requirement. Reassurance, a caress, or a simple touch during the flogging may do wonders also. Do not expect verbal responses if the flogging takes the bottom into new areas, she may not be possible to speak readily, and it may be that she will not be hearing well either. I find that flogging the front of the body, use of ear plugs and blindfolds, stringent bondage to open up delicate body areas, and making the bottom look at themself being flogged all are more ‘serious’ and have more emotional impact than a ‘simple’ flogging. Bruises may appear immediately, not appear at all, or suddenly appear after as much as a day or two, depending on the body concerned, and most people have some reaction to such marks, whether positive or not.

Philosophy 

Flogging can be a powerful and loving act, top and bottom not separated by the flogger, but connected through it. While basic competence and sensitivity will increase the chances of this, caring does help a bit too.

powerfulpleasures.wordpress.com/bdsm-education/flogging

Corporal Punishment (CP)

Corporal Punishment (CP) is the deliberate act of inflicting pain for a perceived or actual transgression of the rules set in a power exchange relationship. However the milder form, such as spanking of buttocks, can be found in settings outside BDSM. Usually the violation determines the amount of pain administered. The practice can take numerous forms. It can range from a few mild whacks across the bare buttocks in a “school” role play to a more intensive interrogation scene, where a great deal of pain is inflicted. Most forms of Corporal Punishment are directed towards the buttocks, the back, the back of the upper legs and the soles of the feet. By spreading the strokes around and not hitting on the same spot there’s less damage and severe pain. Areas protected by large areas of fat or muscle are the best/safest to hit (such as arse cheeks and thighs).



Bondage is not a requirement for CP, although it has become part of the whole scenario. The “victim” may be restrained and/or tied to an object such as a whipping bench and/or be kept in an uncomfortable position. Levels of force may range from that which leaves a short-lived reddened area to welts, lacerations and permanent scarring. Buttocks, inner thighs or the back are the main targets and also possibly palms of the hands too (especially in school role play).

Before starting, Sub and Dom should discuss what level of pain/force is to be used, with a safe word or sign agreed. BDSM limits. The sound of a practice blow on a nearby object or in the air before starting will heighten the Sub’s sense of excitement and dread. Most people need warming up with milder strokes rather than starting with heavy blows. The intensity of the blow can be a factor when playing; sometimes they can be hard, single blows, but commonly they are less intense with more repetitions over a period. This approach increases the sensitivity of the area being struck, thus heightens the pain being felt over time. Bending over tightens buttock muscles, making blows more painful. Lying face down hurts less and is better for beginners.
Avoid:

•  hitting the lower back too much;
•  absolutely avoid the kidney area and kidneys;
•  anywhere on the body that is not padded by muscle and where you are likely to hit bone or the head, as there’s a risk to sight and hearing;
•  body parts with little fat or muscle such as joints (for example, knees or shins);
•  spinal column, including the lower spine due to the danger of paralysis;
•  stomach and ribs as both are more easily damaged;
•  the genitals.

Objects hitting a small surface area result in a more stinging pain, while things that hit a larger area give a thudding pain. The “thud”- like pain of a hand, paddle or flogger hurts less than the stinging pain of a cane or whip.

Belts need special attention; avoid catching the skin with any buckle or studs as these can cause severe pain and lasting scars.
Canes of all sorts and materials give more of a stinging, burning pain.

Paddles, flat wooden instruments, can be used on the buttocks (too heavy for use on the back). Some have holes to reduce air resistance, so hit harder and faster. Being flat, they cause bruising rather than the stripes of canes and whips.

Spanking exerts a pain that is more of a “thud”. Hitting the buttocks is safer due to the large, fleshy area that is away from easily damaged organs and heals well.

Whips give a stinging pain. Bullwhips, although impressive-looking, cannot be used in confined spaces and are made for outdoors. They can inflict serious damage and should be left to experienced users.

Allow recovery time between blows, the harder the hit, the longer the recovery time. This time can be used for gentle contact between Top and Bottom or to prolong the “mind fuck” as the Sub anticipates the next blow.

If there is no broken skin during sessions, this practice is very low risk for HIVtransmission. Any blow that breaks the skin offers a way out or into the body for viruses or bacteria such as HIV, Hepatitis B and Hepatitis C. These can survive in dried blood, so whips, canes or other items used should be cleaned with saddle soap and water or bleach solution between uses on different people (one part bleach mixed with nine parts of water). There are some medical-grade surface cleaners that specify they will kill HCV. If the skin has been compromised, wipe away any blood resulting from the practice using a clean cotton wool ball or swab; it is recommended that you use gloves. In a private setting, if you have a sharps container or bin, place alcohol swabs, cotton wool balls and then gloves in it. If you don’t have one, place the alcohol swabs and cotton wool balls in a fireproof dish and burn them.  To safely dispose of the gloves, leave them on, wash them with a small amount of household bleach, take them off by turning the gloves inside out, double bag them and dispose of in the bin.

www.downandirty.org/site/sexualpractices/section/24/corporal-punishment