Sensuous Caning

INTRODUCTION

Canes have a deserved reputation as The Victorian Terror Weapon.  To most submissives, they mean severe punishment; to sensation-seeking S/M bottoms, overload.  If we have care and patience, however, canes can be used in a loving and sensuous way.  The very stiffness of a good cane, that makes a hard stroke so intense, allows the lightest taps to be given with perfect control.  And a light canestroke is easy to aim, unlike a flexible whip that sags and flops at low power.  In the kind of sensuous play I’m describing here, light strokes are far more prevalent and important than heavy ones.



This style is a matter of trust, patience, and finesse.  If you can’t gain, maintain, and deserve the bottom’s trust, the whole thing is probably going to fail, or fall far short of what it could be.  As for patience, don’t even start a scene like this unless you have at least an hour available, and two is better.  Finesse?  Well, on two occasions

bottoms have gone to sleep while I was caning them.  They woke up black and blue, and giggling.  That’s finesse.

I’m not bragging, and I’m not saying I’m some kind of Caning God.  It’s learnable.  That’s why I’m writing this.

CANING TECHNIQUE

A single cane can deliver an entire symphony of sensation.  A snappy blow that is pulled back a bit just before impact will emphasize surface sting. The same sort of blow carried past the moment of impact, with follow-through, will have much more thud and penetration.

The greatest intensity is delivered by the outer third or so of the cane’s length.  This is the portion that leaves marks, in a hard blow.  In a light blow, this part of the cane will have a relatively stingy feel. Closer to the top’s hand, the cane moves much more slowly, and the sensation will be more thuddy or even massage-like.  This allows a good way of maintaining rhythm and atmosphere while giving some relief to a bottom who is showing signs of overload.

The very tip of a cane can be used on many targets that a full-length blow might harm, or be unable to even reach.  Tip shots can work the inside of the sweet spot, the bottoms of the feet, the muscles between the spine and the shoulder blades.  A traditional cane stroke in any of these areas would cross bony areas, causing bone bruises and pain that is not at all erotic; a hard one might chip bones or crush nerves, and cause truly harmful damage.  DON’T try for these with any force until you are utterly sure of your aim!  Lighter tip shots are much safer, and feel much like percussion massage.

SETUP

I prefer to have the bottom lying flat.  When a person goes as deeply into bottom space as I hope to send them, the mere act of keeping their balance will be a distraction.  Having them lie on a table is easiest on the top’s back in these long scenes; massage tables are ideal, and cafeteria-type tables are sturdy and about the right height.  Arrange padding if the table doesn’t already have it; I usually bring a single-bed sheet and a roll of foam to parties and demos.

Second choice is ground level; on a mattress or futon, or the foam pad. Here the bottom will be laying prone and the top will sit or kneel beside them.  On table or floor, it’s nice to have three or four feet clear on either side of the bottom, so that you can switch sides.  Since the tip of the cane always hits the hardest, switching sides will help to keep the caning symmetrical.  Also, it allows the top’s other hand to rove over a different part of the bottom’s body.  From one side, you can stroke, massage, caress, and collect feedback from feet, legs, and buttocks, and play with their crotch if it’s that kind of scene.  From the other, you caress their face, massage their back, grab hair or the back of their neck, play trust games with your finger between their teeth as you cane them…

A caning can be an awkward thing to deliver when the bottom is standing, especially if the top is taller.  There is a strong tendency for strokes to land too high, on the bony upper half of the butt, when the bottom is standing up.  Also, the sweet spot is hard to reach from this position. Going to one knee may help.  Occasionally a play space may have a stage or platform of some kind, with bondage facilities near the edge of it.  If you have the gear and knowhow to do it safely, suspension may also offer a way to get the bottom a foot or two higher.

I try to avoid the traditional bent positions for caning, where the recipient crouches or bends over a chair.  For one thing, this stretched skin is much more sensitive.  Victorian punishers wanted overload; for a sensuous caning we want to avoid it.  For another, the tailbone comes up into harm’s way when one bends over, and a hard canestroke is quite capable of chipping it and inflicting a painful lifetime disability. Damaged tailbones don’t heal!  There is a lot of perfectly good buttock

area that is hard to work safely from these positions; when the bottom’s body is straight, much more of the tailbone is protected.  When in doubt, run your finger down the spine, all the way into the crack of their ass; you can feel how far the tailbone goes. Check this each time;  the length varies surprisingly among different people.

WARMUP TECHNIQUE

The best precondition for a trip to Endorphin Heaven is for the bottom to be deeply relaxed, trusting, not anticipating the next stroke but rather accepting.  Going too hard or too fast will drop them out of their bottom space (that warm, accepting state of trust) at just the time when you should be building it up.  Their hindbrain will take charge, and its ancient survival reflexes will start screaming “We’re taking damage! Get us the hell out of here!”  A good bottom wants the scene to go well, and will be working to control panic and nervousness.  For this particular style of scene, the top must build the intensity so smoothly that the bottom is supported rather than challenged in their efforts to stay centered and accepting.

Of course, some people warm up much faster than others.  "Smooth" is one thing; boring is quite another.  In initial negotiations, I mention this, and if we are using the “traffic light” safewords I point out that “green” is also a color, and that they can always call for a speedup if they want one.

As we begin, I like to promise that I will escalate the intensity very gradually - something like “no stroke will be more than a third harder than I’ve already given you”.  This helps them relax.  You need to keep this promise, too; surprises will tense them up for a long while afterwards.  Resist the temptation to tease them or fake them out, for the same reason.

I often begin with an ordinary massage.  I explore the muscles of the back, buttocks, and legs, checking for tense spots and taking whatever time is needed to relax them and establish an expectation of pleasure from my touch.  Massage is itself an endorphin releaser, and very non-threatening.  When a bottom is new to this technique, their delighted surprise can relax them, build a lot of trust early on, and give them confidence that there are rewards to be had in exploring with you.

After achieving relaxation of any tense spots, do a little fingertip percussion on the muscled areas of the bottom’s body.  (Fingertip percussion is what a pianist does to strike several close keys all at once.)  The fingers of one or both hands are crooked, and struck down in to the target area.  Work the upper back, to either side of the spine, this way for a while.  Do the same to the lower part of the buttocks, and

down the backs of the legs.  This sort of sensation is a perfect bridge between massage and flagellation; it’s especially good for introducing beginners.

Now begin with the cane, tapping very lightly over the areas that had the percussion warmup.  Don’t tap any bony areas; this is a good time to develop the habit of avoiding them.  Use the cane tip to reach areas that have bone close alongside.  The blows should have less force than your fingertips did; the cane is hard and stingy, and the idea is to introduce the cane without breaking the relaxed and trusting glow of your warmup.

Along with ordinary light taps, mix in a few that are feather-light; with practice you can deliver a flutter as light as the landing of a flock of butterflies.  This is a wonderful contrast to harder strokes; as endorphins build up such a light flutter will often bring on a fit of giggles.

As you work, do single taps, double taps, quick flutters of various intensities.  Your goal here is twofold.  You are trying to teach the bottom that they cannot predict your strokes, but that it doesn’t matter because they won’t be harmed.  It is a non-verbal trust-building exercise..  Done with care, you can give the bottom that wonderful open acceptance of whatever happens, the key to the very best bottom space.

Another key to good bottom space is breathing.  Deep, careful breathing controls panic, and this is vital as intensity builds.  Panic is really the unpleasant portion of pain; take panic away and what’s left is just strong sensations.  All kinds of wonderful things can be done with strong sensations…

If your bottom has ever done yoga, meditation, natural childbirth training, or anything like that, remind them that deep, slow breathing is important here, too.  If they have never had such training, coach them as you go.  If their breathing becomes short and choppy, ease up and remind them to relax and breathe deeply (unless they’re coming, of course; that’s to be encouraged, not interrupted with good advice!)

If your other hand keeps up a steady contact with caresses and massage, not only will it relax and comfort the bottom but you will be able to detect twitches, tension, or relaxation.  Especially with bottoms who aren’t very verbal or vocal, this is the best feedback you can have.

If they are vocalizing, watch out for a sharp edge to their tone.  It warns of gradually building tension - if you continue to hear it, something isn’t working, the bottom space is eroding.  The muscles under your other hand should be more and more relaxed as the caning proceeds; if not, it’s also a sign that your buildup is not succeeding.  This sign is apparent even in a silent bottom.
As you gradually build the intensity, one useful trick is to follow a harder blow with a quick light rain of flutter strokes, right into the same area.  These will distract the bottom from any overload (within reason) and take them back to the bottom space that has just been successfully processing light stuff.  However, the harder blow will have done its work of moving the whole scene to a slightly higher level.

FURTHER CANING TECHNIQUE

If your warmup has opened the way for more powerful strokes, care must be

taken.  Canes may seem stiff, but a hard stroke can bend them ninety degrees and more, and a wraparound with a cane can be downright dangerous. Wraps are most common when a top goes to full power, after a well-aimed series of warmup or measuring strokes.  The problem is in the top’s body dynamics: the momentum of the arm goes up exponentially with increased speed, so the whole body is pulled forward as a heavier stroke is delivered.  The full-power stroke automatically reaches several inches further than the lighter stroke that was supposed to “gauge the distance”.

It’s physics; you can’t keep it from happening, any more than you can walk on the ceiling. What you can do is allow for it, and train yourself to compensate.  You can ease your feet back a bit, or pull your elbow or shoulder back as part of the swing.  Or you can do as Mistress Nan Burrows recommends, and take your aiming stroke so that the cane tip lands in the middle of the far cheek, no further.  This aiming point will land a full-power stroke that safely spans the full width of the buttocks and no further.

If you do wish to play with harder strokes, practice!  Learn to pay close attention to where your cane is landing; this is how you learn to correct your aim.  Mistress Nan advises a lot of practice on a cushion.  There is a certain kind of upholstery that shows the stroke, but each blow shakes the surface and erases the trace of the preceding blow.  Perfect feedback! The upholstery looks to be a kind of heavy-duty velvet; check thrift stores.

When you are ready to try powerful strokes on a human partner, try putting a cushion or blanket roll on the far side of them.  This will catch a wraparound harmlessly.  Be sure to confine hard strokes to the buttocks below the tailbone and the upper half of the thighs.

CANING AND OTHER PLEASURES

Sexual connections: perhaps a very few men can actually get orgasms from the cane.  I think this is incredibly hot, and it makes me very jealous!  There will be others who may not actually climax, but get extremely turned on, which can offer a pleasant answer to the question of “what do we do next?”

The shock waves made by a cane are directional - they tend to continue through the target in the general direction the cane was moving when it hit.  In fact, if you slide a hand under your partner’s thigh or belly, you can feel the shock of a medium cane stroke go right through them.  The “sweet spot” in the lower butt, to either side of the crack, is sweet for this reason; blows here can send waves up into a whole complex of muscles, nerves, and engorged tissue that is directly involved with sexual excitement.  Many bottoms will enjoy a steady rhythm of light or medium

blows on the sweet spot - especially if they are angled to send their shock waves up and forward.  At least one lady I know has called the effect a “rattan vibrator”.

One good sign of this sexual connection is a face-down bottom whose hips begin to rise and fall in a steady rhythm.  You might try matching that rhythm, with light or medium strokes.  Or use your other hand to massage the nerve points around the pelvic dimples and to either side of the last few inches of the spine.

POWER AND ROLEPLAY

Often when I do this, the scene is “pure S/M”, sensation for sensation’s sake.  No roleplay, and no more power exchange than a massage.  The concern for smoothness, the bottom’s comfort and welfare, and cooperation is difficult to reconcile with many of the traditional roles and scenarios, where the top and bottom play as adversaries.  However, there are a few roles possible wherein the person who hits you is not an enemy!

Mentor/Ritualist: The top is a trainer, preparing and coaching the bottom for some ritual ordeal.  Or passing on the secrets of mind control, wherein pain becomes ecstasy.  Or trying to send the bottom on an astral observation of whatever, or a spirit journey, etc.
Comrade: Who is preparing an agent, or coaching a fellow prisoner, to resist/survive an interrogation.  (Of course, the interrogation can follow later, with the top moving into a new role, or new tops coming in for that part.)

Science Fiction: The aliens whose ship crashed think they can recharge the damaged drive crystals, but only by tapping the energy mobilized in what turns out to be this scene.

Some of these may sound hokey, but roleplay always sounds hokey to anyone who is not motivated toward that particular scenario.  Find a script that works for you, and suspension of disbelief will come much more easily.

Also, endorphins can lead many bottoms into a profound submissive space. If you enjoy serious D/S or role play, you may find this endorphin-oriented warmup offers a startlingly good beginning to a more psychological sort of scene.

MAKING YOUR OWN TOYS

Traditional canes are made of rattan, a woody reed from the East Indies. It has a jointed stem that resembles bamboo, but is not hollow.  Rattan is very tough and strong, and makes the most durable natural canes I know. Like bamboo, it comes in all sorts of diameters; traditional canes are about 8mm, but thicker and thinner ones are also useful.

Rattan can sometimes be found at craft stores or Oriental basketwork shops.  It is used to make wicker furniture, so a repairer of that might have a stock of it as well.  Unfortunately, most of the cane-sized rattan that comes into this country has been bent into coils, which warps and sometimes cracks it.

If you must deal with the coiled stuff, it should first be cut to length with a fine-toothed saw.  Coping saws and hacksaws work well.  A dressmaker’s tape is a handy way to measure along the coils.  Obviously, you should not include cracked places in your layout.

Less obviously, your canes will be much more durable if the tip includes one of the joints of the stem.  The convoluted grain in each joint resists splitting, as opposed to the very straight grain that runs for the foot or so between joints.  A lot of the coiled rattan has been peeled and sanded, but the joints are still noticeable if you look and feel carefully.  Cut the stem about a stem diameter to one side of the joint; this will become the tip of the cane.  (The ends without joints included are fine for handles - the tips are what take the shock and strain.)

You can make the canes any length you like; I prefer 20-30 inches (50-80cm) as they are easier to aim and more convenient in close quarters. Long ones have more power, but can be awkward.  The natural variations in your coil will probably give you several choices.
Each tip needs to be rounded off; any kind of edge here will break skin far too easily.  Coarse sandpaper works well, especially in a power sander of some kind.  Hand sanding will also do, as will a fairly coarse metal file.  Whatever you use, try for a smoothly rounded end.  Now hand-sand the whole length of each cane with medium paper; try to remove the stray fibers you find sticking up from the wood.  They are a nuisance during varnishing.

The cut pieces will have to be soaked and steamed to straighten them without breaking.  I soak mind in the bathtub for a day or two, but any water will do.  Don’t let them dry out.  After soaking comes steaming and straightening.  You will need some way of keeping the canes straight as they dry; I lay them in a series of grooves I routed into a plank, and then clamp another plank on top of them.  You can also try shoving each one down a length of pipe; plastic water pipe won’t rust and stain the canes.

When you have your straightening rig set up, boil a big kettle of water. Wrap the canes in a towel or two, lay them in the (drained) tub and pour some boiling water over them.  Dose them every minute or so for a few minutes, and then unwrap them; the scalding will make them limp and easy to uncurl.  (Dishwashing gloves help keep your fingers from scalding, too.)  Quickly, before they can cool, bend them straight and put them in the jig.  Put the jig in a dry place with good ventilation for five days (10 if you’re metric).  :-)

Remove the canes and hang them up for air drying; I use clothespins on cords.  After one day of air drying, brush them thoroughly with a coat of spar varnish; Varathane works well.  Give each cane at least three coats; let each coat dry enough that you can sand off any lumps.  Some newspapers on the floor under them will be a good ideas, since at least one of them will drip no matter how careful you are.

The handle end of each cane can be left as is, or a grip can be added for comfort or appearance.  You can dip the handle ends in plastic tool dip - it will take several coats, and you can hang them from the same setup you used in the varnishing.  The fumes of this stuff are truly nasty; be sure you have good ventilation.  Less toxically, you can wrap the grips with cord or leather lacing, sew a scrap of leather or cloth around them, or cover them with tape.  Bicycle handlebar tape makes a fine grip.

You can of course prepare other kinds of wooden rods this way - and avoid all the straightening hassle by picking ones that are straight to begin with.  Bamboo is cheap and widely available, and also stiffer than rattan, which makes aiming easier.  Bamboo, of course, is hollow and the tip must be made at a joint, just as described for rattan.  Bamboo works fine for light to medium blows; heavy blows with it can be dangerous.  Bamboo can split without warning, and the splits have edges like razors!  Hardwood dowels from the hardware store can have the same problems.  Avoid either of these materials for heavy canings.

Many other plants have canelike shoots.  Forsythia is a very popular ornamental, and the older branches from the inside of the bush can make quite a reasonable cane.  Prepare as you would rattan.  They aren’t as durable, but the price is right, especially if rattan is hard to buy where you live.  Apple trees develop suckers each year, especially upward from the top branches.  These grow straight, to about the right length, and are pruned off in great numbers every year.  They are quite tough and durable. The buds make rough little bumps along the shoot;  they can be sanded off if they seem too harsh.

Some twigs, such as birch or willow, are fine for scenes but far too flexible to be considered or used as canes.  Handling them is a whole different topic.

There are also synthetic canes, mostly plastics.  Plastics are much denser than wood, so they hit harder and the stroke is more penetrating.  They are very easy to clean, which is a good thing because the thinner ones break skin quite easily.

There are shops in most large and medium cities that sell plastic supplies.  There can be a confusing variety of materials there: Delrin, Lexan, and fiberglass are three kinds of rod that are tough enough to make good canes.  Acrylic is not tough enough; I have broken several. If the clear look appeals to you, get Lexan.  Sora, from San Francisco, makes some very nice Lexan canes, if you want to buy ready-made.  If you prepare your own, you won’t need to varnish them, but be sure to remember to round and smooth the tip!

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Spanking

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Caning Introduction

Caning is the SM technique of consensually striking someone (most commonly on the buttocks) with a cane for mutual erotic pleasure.



Care should be taken to observe all appropriate safety precautions.

Canes have a deserved reputation as The Victorian Terror Weapon.

To most submissives, they mean severe punishment; to sensation-seeking S/M bottoms, overload. If we have care and patience, however, canes can be used in a loving and sensuous way. The very stiffness of a good cane, that makes a hard stroke so intense, allows the lightest taps to be given with perfect control. And a light cane stroke is easy to aim, unlike a flexible whip that sags and flops at low power.

In the kind of sensuous play I’m describing here, light strokes are far more prevalent and important than heavy ones.

CARE

To keep canes healthy, once a year one should sand the tip, stand the cane in a vase of water overnight, and then revarnish the tip.

SELECTING A CANE

• ·Canes should be able to bend significantly.
• ·One should be able to bring the cane down in a straight line.
• ·The cane should have three or more coats of varnish.
• ·Small diameter = sharp pain. Large diameter = thud.

CANING HINTS

• ·The bottom experiences two sensations with every stroke (nerves being compressed and then expanding). Thus, the strokes shouldn’t go too fast.
• ·Be sure the room isn’t too cold.
• ·Bottom should relax muscles in butt to avoid later lactic acid buildup causing a deep ache.
• ·It is difficult if not impossible to kill any Hepatitis pathogens on canes.
• ·Extra Zinc helps bruises heal.
• ·Avoid striking the tail bone and the back of the knee.
• ·Front of thighs can be caned.
• ·The fold between the buttocks and thighs is termed the “sulcus,” and can be quite painful when struck.
• ·A circular “fluffing” motion can be effective for rapid “warm-up” strokes.
• ·Backhanded strokes often land harder.
• ·Hitting and holding delays the second stage of pain.

The cane is one of the most important-and most intrinsically severe-of all instruments of punishment for punishments.
Canes are made from a variety of materials, with rattan being the most popular, due to its unique combination of light weight and extreme flexibility. They can also be made from malacca and bamboo-both unsuitable materials in my opinion, since malacca is too “knobbly” and bamboo is liable to splinter-and also from whalebone, a very severe form indeed of this instrument. And of course, ad hoc punishment ferrules can be shaped very easily from switches cut from any hedgerow-hazel, willow and young ash-plants all being suitable, though only the last-named will last for more than one punishment.

• The standard cane is universally manufactured from rattan, and is typically supplied with one end already curled into the traditional handle. Lengths vary from about two feet (these are intended to be used across the knee on but I do not think this “punishment” can ever be effective) to about four feet. Canes longer than this will be difficult to control and aim properly and should be rejected (unless the caning is of the judicial type).
• The weight of a cane is the important thing and here appearances may be deceptive. Rattan is a very light material and inexperienced governesses not appreciating this are liable to choose their canes on the slender side, reasoning that this will make the strokes more merciful. In fact the reverse is true: a slim, wand-like cane is crueler and more liable to cut. Thicker canes better combine the qualities of penetration and “spread”, and are less liable to break the skin. (I speak in this context of canings inflicted “on the bare”-if a boy retains his trousers you may use what cane you like.)

CANE USE

It is, as I have said, a severe instrument, and though versatile-it can be used to punish the hands and the clothed or unclothed bottom-the cane should be used with respect for its considerable powers of penetration. Wrongly used, it can be a vicious implement.

Applying the cane across the bare bottom is one way of observing the progress and effect of the punishment, and of checking one’s aim. Some males have tougher hides than others, but even a light caning of a few strokes will leave, in addition to the usual blush across the nether regions, intermittent evidence of the rod in the form of visible weals. If the strokes are administered at a slow pace-say, one every ten seconds-the caner has time to observe these marks begin to develop, and like a rifleman can correct her aim accordingly. All strokes should be delivered into as narrow a band as possible, and that area should correspond with the plumpest and best-padded part of the posterior.

Administering any sort of caning is a matter of some precision, the attainment of which is generally a matter of practice. In order to be effective at all, it must be administered with a minimum of real force.

CANING TECHNIQUES

I have spoken much already about this excellent implement so here I shall confine myself to observations concerning its use. The cane is a highly penetrating instrument of great potential severity, and care must be taken when administering it-so much is obvious. It is also lighter than it looks. But the important point is its extreme flexibility. During the quarter-second or so of flight, the instrument achieves a near semi circularity in shape. Although it may appears straight and even stiff (till it is moved), in practice it is more whip like. The arm and wrist motion is therefore a complex one. At the beginning of the stroke, the hand leads the tip of the cane; it continues to lead throughout the descent; only at the last moment, after the shortest of follow-throughs, does the wrist halt and reverse direction slightly so that the business end of the cane “catches up” at exactly the right angle to the posterior. The achievement of a good caning action is therefore a matter of some diligence and constant practice

Another precaution is to take one’s stance slightly to the left of the target-perhaps as much as a half-pace. This ensures that the tip of the cane, which travels faster than the rest of the instrument during the latter part of the flight, strikes the far buttock at precisely the same instant, and with the same force, as the rest of the cane makes contact with the near buttock. The result should be a perfect stripe across the broadest part of the bottom. This mark will immediately appear in white as you finish the stroke; then it will fade; to reappear (if it has been a severe stroke) within less than a minute as a thin welt.

I have spoken earlier about limits on the use of the cane. Feeble strokes merely tap the skin. Savage blows can cut it. Both are to be deplored. The result of a sound caning should be a welted bottom, certainly-if the behind is not vividly marked the punishment has been too mild and will be too rapidly forgotten-but not a scarified one. That is simple brutality.

The cane should hum or whistle in the stroke and fall across the target with a sharp snap, like a toy pistol. There should be a pause between strokes-say, a minimum of ten seconds.

Beware of canes that are too long. While a long cane whips-in satisfactorily, it is harder to control, and the stray six inches at the end may cause the further buttock to be punished more severely than the nearer. Standing well to the left of the target is one cure, but on the whole it is best to use a slightly shorter weapon, and to strike slightly harder.

When a culprit is bending over in the conventional position, do not make the mistake of shaping your stroke with too great a downwards component. The chances are you may hit the base of the spine, or the cane will fall at an awkward, grazing angle, or you may punish the upper half of the buttocks and leave the lower, more sensitive portion, unscathed. Take a horizontal or even slightly upwards aim, draw the cane back slowly within the same are, then whip the forearm and wrist smartly through from one side to the other, keeping your eyes on the exact spot you are aiming for. Do not look up from this spot until you have completed the stroke. If the buttocks have been bared beforehand, observe the mark and compare it to your point of aim; adjust the next stroke accordingly.
A traditional way of limiting the amount of force that may be applied is to tuck a large book-say, the Bible-under your punishing arm and retain it there throughout the caning. A little experimentation will shew that it is impossible to use the shoulder and upper arm muscles without letting the book fall. You are constrained to wrist and forearm, which is exactly as it should be. An even greater error is to be over-harsh. The difference between the lightest cut that may reasonably be given, and the severest, is not large; and if greater severity is required it is safer to increase the number of strokes, or to apply some additional measure, such as baring the bottom.
A single cane can deliver an entire symphony of sensation. A snappy blow that is pulled back a bit just before impact will emphasize surface sting. The same sort of blow carried past the moment of impact, with follow-through, will have much more thud and penetration.

The greatest intensity is delivered by the outer third or so of the cane’s length. This is the portion that leaves marks, in a hard blow. In a light blow, this part of the cane will have a relatively stingy feel. Closer to the top’s hand, the cane moves much more slowly, and the sensation will be more thuddy or even massage-like. This allows a good way of maintaining rhythm and atmosphere while giving some relief to a bottom who is showing signs of overload.

The very tip of a cane can be used on many targets that a full-length blow might harm, or be unable to even reach. Tip shots can work the inside of the sweet spot, the bottoms of the feet, the muscles between the spine and the shoulder blades. A traditional cane stroke in any of these areas would cross bony areas, causing bone bruises and pain that is not at all erotic; a hard one might chip bones or crush nerves, and cause truly harmful damage. DON’T try for these with any force until you are utterly sure of your aim! Lighter tip shots are much safer, and feel much like percussion massage.

SETUP

I prefer to have the bottom lying flat. When a person goes as deeply into bottom space as I hope to send them, the mere act of keeping their balance will be a distraction. Having them lie on a table is easiest on the top’s back in these long scenes; massage tables are ideal, and cafeteria-type tables are sturdy and about the right height. Arrange padding if the table doesn’t already have it; I usually bring a single-bed sheet and a roll of foam to parties and demos.

Second choice is ground level; on a mattress or futon, or the foam pad. Here the bottom will be laying prone and the top will sit or kneel beside them. On table or floor, it’s nice to have three or four feet clear on either side of the bottom, so that you can switch sides. Since the tip of the cane always hits the hardest, switching sides will help to keep the caning symmetrical. Also, it allows the top’s other hand to rove over a different part of the bottom’s body. From one side, you can stroke, massage, caress, and collect feedback from feet, legs, and buttocks, and play with their crotch if it’s that kind of scene. From the other, you caress their face, massage their back, grab hair or the back of their neck, play trust games with your finger between their teeth as you cane them…

A caning can be an awkward thing to deliver when the bottom is standing, especially if the top is taller. There is a strong tendency for strokes to land too high, on the bony upper half of the butt, when the bottom is standing up. Also, the sweet spot is hard to reach from this position. Going to one knee may help. Occasionally a play space may have a stage or platform of some kind, with bondage facilities near the edge of it. If you have the gear and knowhow to do it safely, suspension may also offer a way to get the bottom a foot or two higher.

I try to avoid the traditional bent positions for caning, where the recipient crouches or bends over a chair. For one thing, this stretched skin is much more sensitive. Victorian punishers wanted overload; for a sensuous caning we want to avoid it. For another, the tailbone comes up into harm’s way when one bends over, and a hard canestroke is quite capable of chipping it and inflicting a painful lifetime disability. Damaged tailbones don’t heal! There is a lot of perfectly good buttock area that is hard to work safely from these positions; when the bottom’s body is straight, much more of the tailbone is protected.

When in doubt, run your finger down the spine, all the way into the crack of their ass; you can feel how far the tailbone goes. Check this each time; the length varies surprisingly among different people.

WARMUP TECHNIQUE

The best precondition for a trip to Endorphin Heaven is for the bottom to be deeply relaxed, trusting, not anticipating the next stroke but rather accepting. Going too hard or too fast will drop them out of their bottom space (that warm, accepting state of trust) at just the time when you should be building it up. Their hindbrain will take charge, and its ancient survival reflexes will start screaming “We’re taking damage! Get us the hell out of here!” A good bottom wants the scene to go well, and will be working to control panic and nervousness. For this particular style of scene, the top must build the intensity so smoothly that the bottom is supported rather than challenged in their efforts to stay centered and accepting.

Of course, some people warm up much faster than others. “Smooth” is one thing; boring is quite another. In initial negotiations, I mention this, and if we are using the “traffic light” safewords I point out that “green” is also a color, and that they can always call for a speedup if they want one.

As we begin, I like to promise that I will escalate the intensity very gradually - something like “no stroke will be more than a third harder than I’ve already given you”. This helps them relax. You need to keep this promise, too; surprises will tense them up for a long while afterwards. Resist the temptation to tease them or fake them out, for the same reason.

I often begin with an ordinary massage. I explore the muscles of the back, buttocks, and legs, checking for tense spots and taking whatever time is needed to relax them and establish an expectation of pleasure from my touch. Massage is itself an endorphin releaser, and very non-threatening. When a bottom is new to this technique, their delighted surprise can relax them, build a lot of trust early on, and give them confidence that there are rewards to be had in exploring with you.

After achieving relaxation of any tense spots, do a little fingertip percussion on the muscled areas of the bottom’s body. (Fingertip percussion is what a pianist does to strike several close keys all at once.) The fingers of one or both hands are crooked, and struck down in to the target area. Work the upper back, to either side of the spine, this way for a while. Do the same to the lower part of the buttocks, and down the backs of the legs. This sort of sensation is a perfect bridge between massage and flagellation; it’s especially good for introducing beginners.

Now begin with the cane, tapping very lightly over the areas that had the percussion warmup. Don’t tap any bony areas; this is a good time to develop the habit of avoiding them. Use the cane tip to reach areas that have bone close alongside. The blows should have less force than your fingertips did; the cane is hard and stingy, and the idea is to introduce the cane without breaking the relaxed and trusting glow of your warmup. Along with ordinary light taps, mix in a few that are feather-light; with practice you can deliver a flutter as light as the landing of a flock of butterflies. This is a wonderful contrast to harder strokes; as endorphins build up such a light flutter will often bring on a fit of giggles.

As you work, do single taps, double taps, quick flutters of various intensities. Your goal here is twofold. You are trying to teach the bottom that they cannot predict your strokes, but that it doesn’t matter because they won’t be harmed. It is a non-verbal trust-building exercise.. Done with care, you can give the bottom that wonderful open acceptance of whatever happens, the key to the very best bottom space.

Another key to good bottom space is breathing. Deep, careful breathing controls panic, and this is vital as intensity builds. Panic is really the unpleasant portion of pain; take panic away and what’s left is just strong sensations. All kinds of wonderful things can be done with strong sensations…

If your bottom has ever done yoga, meditation, natural childbirth training, or anything like that, remind them that deep, slow breathing is important here, too. If they have never had such training, coach them as you go. If their breathing becomes short and choppy, ease up and remind them to relax and breathe deeply (unless they’re coming, of course; that’s to be encouraged, not interrupted with good advice!)

If your other hand keeps up a steady contact with caresses and massage, not only will it relax and comfort the bottom but you will be able to detect twitches, tension, or relaxation. Especially with bottoms who aren’t very verbal or vocal, this is the best feedback you can have.

If they are vocalizing, watch out for a sharp edge to their tone. It warns of gradually building tension - if you continue to hear it, something isn’t working, the bottom space is eroding. The muscles under your other hand should be more and more relaxed as the caning proceeds; if not, it’s also a sign that your buildup is not succeeding. This sign is apparent even in a silent bottom.

As you gradually build the intensity, one useful trick is to follow a harder blow with a quick light rain of flutter strokes, right into the same area. These will distract the bottom from any overload (within reason) and take them back to the bottom space that has just been successfully processing light stuff. However, the harder blow will have done its work of moving the whole scene to a slightly higher level.

FURTHER CANING TECHNIQUE

If your warm up has opened the way for more powerful strokes, care must be taken. Canes may seem stiff, but a hard stroke can bend them ninety degrees and more, and a wraparound with a cane can be downright dangerous. Wraps are most common when a top goes to full power, after a well-aimed series of warmup or measuring strokes. The problem is in the top’s body dynamics: the momentum of the arm goes up exponentially with increased speed, so the whole body is pulled forward as a heavier stroke is delivered. The full-power stroke automatically reaches several inches further than the lighter stroke that was supposed to “gauge the distance”. It’s physics; you can’t keep it from happening, any more than you can walk on the ceiling. What you can do is allow for it, and train yourself to compensate. You can ease your feet back a bit, or pull your elbow or shoulder back as part of the swing. Or you can do as Mistress Nan Burrows recommends, and take your aiming stroke so that the cane tip lands in the middle of the far cheek, no further. This aiming point will land a full-power stroke that safely spans the full width of the buttocks and no further.

If you do wish to play with harder strokes, practice! Learn to pay close attention to where your cane is landing; this is how you learn to correct your aim. Mistress Nan advises a lot of practice on a cushion. There is a certain kind of upholstery that shows the stroke, but each blow shakes the surface and erases the trace of the preceding blow. Perfect feedback! The upholstery looks to be a kind of heavy-duty velvet; check thrift stores.

When you are ready to try powerful strokes on a human partner, try putting a cushion or blanket roll on the far side of them. This will catch a wraparound harmlessly. Be sure to confine hard strokes to the buttocks below the tailbone and the upper half of the thighs.

CANING AND OTHER PLEASURES

Sexual connections: perhaps a very few men, can actually get orgasms from the cane. I think this is incredibly hot, and it makes me very jealous! There will be others who may not actually climax, but get extremely turned on, which can offer a pleasant answer to the question of “what do we do next?”

The shock waves made by a cane are directional - they tend to continue through the target in the general direction the cane was moving when it hit. In fact, if you slide a hand under your partner’s thigh or belly, you can feel the shock of a medium cane stroke go right through them. The “sweet spot” in the lower butt, to either side of the crack, is sweet for this reason; blows here can send waves up into a whole complex of muscles, nerves, and engorged tissue that is directly involved with sexual excitement. Many bottoms will enjoy a steady rhythm of light or medium blows on the sweet spot - especially if they are angled to send their shock waves up and forward. At least one lady I know has called the effect a “rattan vibrator”.

One good sign of this sexual connection is a face-down bottom whose hips begin to rise and fall in a steady rhythm. You might try matching that rhythm, with light or medium strokes. Or use your other hand to massage the nerve points around the pelvic dimples and to either side of the last few inches of the spine.

POWER AND ROLEPLAY

Often when I do this, the scene is “pure S/M”, sensation for sensation’s sake. No roleplay, and no more power exchange than a massage. The concern for smoothness, the bottom’s comfort and welfare, and cooperation is difficult to reconcile with many of the traditional roles and scenarios, where the top and bottom play as adversaries. However, there are a few roles possible wherein the person who hits you is not an enemy!

Mentor/Ritualist: The top is a trainer, preparing and coaching the bottom for some ritual ordeal. Or passing on the secrets of mind control, wherein pain becomes ecstasy. Or trying to send the bottom on an astral observation of whatever, or a spirit journey, etc. Comrade: Who is preparing an agent, or coaching a fellow prisoner, to resist/survive an interrogation. (Of course, the interrogation can follow later, with the top moving into a new role, or new tops coming in for that part.) Science Fiction: The aliens whose ship crashed think they can recharge the damaged drive crystals, but only by tapping the energy mobilized in what turns out to be this scene. Some of these may sound hokey, but roleplay always sounds hokey to anyone who is not motivated toward that particular scenario. Find a script that works for you, and suspension of disbelief will come much more easily. Also, endorphins can lead many bottoms into a profound submissive space. If you enjoy serious D/S or role play, you may find this endorphin-oriented warmup offers a startlingly good beginning to a more psychological sort of scene.

collarncuffs.com/resources/doku.php?id=canes

Floggers

Disclaimer of a legal sort

Striking the human body must be considered dangerous. As I am neither a medical nor a legal professional, the following is offered as my opinion only, not a recommendation for any activity. Nothing can possibly replace personal experience and learning directly from those who have been there before. There are now workshops and demonstrations available in larger cities, avail yourself of one. I have no control over the use of this information, use it at your own risk. And as ever, proceed with caring.

WITH WHAT?

A ‘flogger’ shall remain for the moment 'any flexible many-tailed striking tool where the tails are simple strips of leather or similar substances, designed for use on the human body’. In short, not bullwhips, braided cat-o-nines, crops, scourges, thudtoys and such, simply floggers. A braided cat is similar to a flogger in many respects, yet has a distinct 'feel’, both these and floggers with knotted ends are left for another discussion.

As floggers were less available in former days, many people made their own in various styles and weights. Even if you are not doing so, some basic principles of design might help you select a superior one from the regrettably large supply of the other sort. I shall not include specific designs, the subject has been done to death before, and they are readily available elsewhere. As Janet Heartwood has provided excellent information in her 'Heartwood Catalog’, I have used a similar format in my materials listing below. Although I have not ordered from her and can give no opinion, her wares seem well received among posters here.

Design notes

For any given force, the smaller the contact area that force is concentrated in, the greater the potential for damage. Think of a knife edge as the extreme case. This is why quality flogger tails have rounded edges and tips; although sharp edges require less work and are less expensive, rounded edges are preferable.

The wider the tail, the more surface area to be forced through the air, and again, the more lands at once on the skin. As a general rule for the same material, thin tails 'sting’, wide tails 'thud’. Thin, rounded thong tails sting much more than 5/8 inch wide flat tails, for example.
If all things are equal, the more tails a flogger has, the slower it travels, and the longer the tails are, the more leverage is gained. Both of the above make a flogger heavier, but the longer tails can make it disproportionately more difficult to control, therefore many of the 'standard’ floggers have tail lengths between 15 and 22 inches. It is possible to do quite interesting things with a long flogger, such as laying it down an entire back at once, but this is not recommended for beginners as it can take serious practise to do well. Very short floggers have special uses for close work, one nipple at a time, that sort of thing. Floggers with perhaps 15 to 25 tails are average, twice that makes a heavier version of the same design.

For safety, flogger tails must remain fixed to the end of the handle; this region is where the most stress occurs in use. A good covering knot will help reduce this strain, and keep the tails together. The handle must work with your hand, not against it, neither too large nor small for a proper grip, and a knot or swelling near the end of the flogger serves to prevent slippage. Short handles are better for control, longer handles provide more leverage. The weight of the handle must feel 'right’ with the tails [something one must feel, not read about. If the sellers will not allow a cautious swing of prospective purchases, find another shop].

Beyond weight, width and length, the materials matter most. I have personal experience only with the following, perhaps others may share their knowledge as well. A selection from the below provides a range of severity and feelings from 'did you start yet?’ to 'Omi god!’. Again in general, the softer and lighter the material, the safer it is [the harder/longer it may be used without risk], and the softer it feels. As ever,

~the RESPONSIBLE TOP TESTS each implement on herself before it touches a bottom, and checks for breakage or other safety problems before each use.~

Material List

An ounce or two of loosely twisted cotton wool in a pillowcase folded lengthwise- this and the next two have been useful for those with no experience with flogging, yet much interest. Quite safe, I originally tested mine by repeated strikes to my own face with no effect.

Chamois

a more permanent version of the above, a 3/8 inch tail width 20-tail is a specialized tool for flogging either a complete novice or one who prefers nearly no sensation. Noise, a very light skin-level sensation, and nothing else, tested as above. Of course it may also cause her to look back at you and ask if that is all you plan on doing….

Fabric

silk and other softer fabrics can be made into floggers. Avoid fraying of edges by sewing the fabric into closed tubes, ironing each tube flat, then sewing the flat sides together along the long axis. Similar to chamois, more decorative colors available, and many fabrics are washable.

Deerskin

soft and caressing, a tiny bit of sting, a bit of thud, and little else. Unless one is hitting exceptionally hard, a deerskin flogger can be used for a very long time without any notable skin reactions beyond a light flush. My personal favorite for light play or the less experienced.

Light Nylon Cordage [1/8 inch diameter for a start]

Take 15 loops 34 inches long [circumference], tying them together in a knot at one end. Cut the other end [tail length now perhaps 15 inches], fray the cut ends and attach to a handle. Two sensations, a very light one from brushing with the tips alone, and a heavier one from the non-frayed section. Simple to clean, quite inexpensive, and different weights of cord are readily available. Elkhide- heavier than Deerskin, yet soft and compressible, almost entirely thud. A lovely flogger for a slow building scene, very easy to relax into, and can be used with astonishing force with little risk of harm.

The next three are varieties of cowhide, the 'standard’ leather. These are not specific cuts or tanning terms, but are classes of weight and type.

Suede

in the lighter varieties, slightly harder than Elk, in the heaviest, just below the thick Topgrain below. Many floggers are made from various suede 'splits’, these are inexpensive and simple to work. More thud and more sting than those above, may mark if swung sharply. Topgrain leather- smooth leathers create less friction than suedes, yet usually feel more 'sting-y’ on the skin. Available in many weights, from light garment leathers to heavy saddle leathers, the more flexible varieties are recommended.

Oil tanned thick leather

thick, heavy, and spongy leather, less flexible than thinner skins. Feels rather like an extremely heavy Elk as it compresses, yet a far more 'serious’ thud.

Bison

Interesting rough grain, heavy, rather inflexible, unless careful attention is taken the edges may cut the skin. Not a material for the beginner, but certainly something to use if desired.

Rubber

flexible, yet quite 'harsh’ feeling, stings rather like a thong flogger, leaves immediate marks. Different weight to air resistance ratio than any leather I am aware of. Exceptionally simple to clean.

Horsehair

Extreme sting with no thud, entirely skin-level sensation of a very intense and itching sort. It is possible to break skin with horsehair, and it creates deceptively intense stinging at a very light touch. Cleanliness and body fluid precautions are required here, IMO. Additionally, most of these have tactile and scent qualities that may attract some, with the exception of the pillowcase, fabric, nylon, and the oil-tanned leather [much of which smells rather nasty]. All except the pillowcase may be made into floggers that look rather nice, and all of the above are now available ready-made through shops and catalogs.

Technique-

Much has been discussed, experienced, debated, and counter-debated here and elsewhere on this personal topic, but as this is intended as a generic suggestion for the beginner, perhaps there is a possibility we might avoid the usual flamewar-of-the-moment? Of course it would be wonderful if others would add their own ideas to this basic outline [subtle hint].

WHERE?

Where to flog? Where not?

As 'flogging’ is something that covers much by way of different activities, I have taken the liberty of separating it into 'light’ [entirely sting, no deep tissue effects], and 'heavy’ [sting and/or thud, reaching and jarring deep tissue]. *Hint* it is impossible to do 'heavy’ flogging with a 20-tail chamois flogger, and quite difficult to do 'light’ flogging with anything over deerskin in the materials progression cited above [with the exception of horsehair, again a sting-only material].

Of course all of these are merely physical 'possibilities’ rated solely on my own opinions of [relative] safety, all limits and preferences of top and bottom must also be considered.

Where not to flog 'under any circumstances’ [obvious safety reasons]-

The face, head, neck, the fingers and toes, over healing skin [if you want it to ever heal:-|].

Where to flog *extremely* lightly and carefully if at all [Really a gentle brushing motion rather than a striking one, tips of a *light* stinging instrument only, such as the chamois or horsehair above]-

The palms and back of the hands, over any joint, the lower front and back and sides between the top of the pelvis and the lower ribs [kidneys and other internal organs], the spine, the tops and bottoms of the feet.

N.B. Both feet and hands contain many tiny bones, once broken, these rarely heal well. Joints do not respond well to stress internal or external. Crippling is neither safe nor sane and unless one has an X-ray machine at call one cannot tell. Internal organs are more fragile than one might think, avoid thud entirely in their area. Many people have particular problems with body areas as well, do attempt the above *very* lightly indeed if at all!

Where to flog lightly

Lower legs, arms, inner arms, breasts, genitals [skin is more fragile there], upper shoulders [accuracy], top of buttocks near spine, the muscular ridge on both sides of the spine [accuracy], the ribs where not protected by muscle.
N.B. The top of the buttocks protect the coccyx, a small and fragile triangular bone at the base of the spine, avoid striking between the upper buttocks.

Where to flog 'heavily’

Buttocks, upper back on each side of the spine, thighs, lower shoulders. These areas are principally composed of strong bones protected by muscle tissue and a fatty layer, any other organs present are reasonably protected. There are reasons for these traditional areas being so traditional, they reduce the likelihood of major damage, making an extended safer session possible.

Position considerations

Body position affects the position of both skin and muscles. If someone is bent over, the muscles of the rear lengthen and are not as thick, so the muscles themselves no longer protect in the same way. If the skin is stretched as well, it will feel more than it would if relaxed. Flogging someone who is standing unsupported may lead to falling, and seems foolish given the known physiological and psychological effects ['going away’]. Standing bondage changes without warning to partial suspension if someone faints, plan for that possibility.

HOW?- Technique repertoire

The more ways one knows to do an action, the more effects may be created, and the less one’s arm aches afterwards. Varying the motions has a good effect for top and bottom. Practice the following until you can do them from various directions and speeds, they all feel and work differently. Knowing the techniques is only one part, knowing which to use and when is beyond my ability to suggest in a post.

Swinging styles

I know of four basic ways to end a stroke of any force:

• [1] The tails land 'flat’, with all of the force hitting at once [the tails either bounce off or drop almost vertically after this].

• [2] The tails swing 'through’, with the some part of the tips hitting and moving past the target area. From there, you may stop them [see 'Accuracy-’ below], or use some elliptical pattern to bring them round again, such as vertical or horizontal figure-8, circle, and the like.

• [2a] The tail tips strike, go past, then immediately return via a swift spinning motion. If fast enough, this can seem continuous and the light, sharp touch has some sensational advantages.

• [3] The tails are snapped or 'whipped’ for a smaller point of stimulation that is more discrete and feels 'sharper’.

• [4] The tails land all at once on the body in a strongly forward motion resembling a punch or push more than a swing. Difficult to describe, and not as common, a hard thud stroke.

Each of these and all their variations may be primarily accomplished by wrist motion alone, or with arm and wrist moving together, this depends on your strength and the effect you seek. A properly balanced flogger requires less effort, and may be used for a longer time with less fatigue.

Skill

I would like to add my voice to [I believe] Mauser’s previous post on this, bad technique is simply inexcusable; although we are all fallible, misplacing a stroke is not something to be taken lightly. There is indeed an art to the physical act of flogging. This may be learned as any other physical art, by observation, thought, and practice.

Practice in the air will teach you the balance of a flogger, but there is no substitute for actual impact. I believe it was STella who suggested a velvet pillow, and another person suggested suspending it in a way that allowed for movement. This works nicely, a safe and useful simulation.

If you rarely find velvet pillows strewn about, a towel wrapped round a pillow will serve the same purpose, you will see the path of the flogger tails quite nicely in the nap of the fabric. When you are able to land all the tails in one area on the pillow, practice moving that aiming point about until you know exactly where it will land each time. Now practice varying the speed, pace and strength of the blows without sacrificing that accuracy. When you have that in balance, try these variations on your own leg, get the feel of that specific instrument, *then* consider using it on the willing form of another.

Accuracy

A flogger [as opposed to a crop or whip] 'flops around more’, it naturally covers a wider area and is more difficult to control. If one avoids any spin on the handle, the first stroke may be accurate with the tails close together. Unfortunately the next ones tend to be less so unless some care is taken with the tails between strokes. The tails may be caught in the free hand between strokes, allowed to wrap gently on the top’s torso or leg to gather them together, or hang straight down between strokes. Any of these options will make the next stroke more accurate as the tails will at least start together. It is possible to stop them in mid-air as well, but more difficult to cause them to swing together. With practice, a well-made flogger that is 2 inches in diameter with the tails gathered together may be precisely placed within a 3 to 4 inch target path.

As a suggestion for beginners, start with the bottom reclining face down and the top kneeling or standing a-straddle, thus allowing gravity to assist in the guidance of the tails.

Swinging at a body part that protrudes ensures accuracy. The buttocks of a standing bottom whose entire front is pressed against a rigid support are a classic example of this, a straight side-to-side swing with the tips of a flogger can strike only the intended area, leaving the lower back and upper thighs untouched. Costuming may help as well, certain corsets may provide some protection for the kidneys, and may act as a sort of armor against mishap.

Wrapping

If the middle section of tails strikes first on a rounded 'edge’ of the body, and the tips 'wrap’ following the curve, the tips actually accelerate far more than the original swing [physics, try it on something inanimate and see]. This is 'wraparound’, and is usually a bad thing, causing inadvertent hard blows to areas one did not intend to touch at all, or ruining the controlled stroke one did intend. Keeping the flogger handle the same distance away from the skin as you did in practice will help here, as will being very careful to plan where the tips will fall at each stroke, avoiding curved edges to wrap around.

Being 'tip conscious’ is the best way to avoid wraparound, but placing a pillow to protect the side of a reclining bottom works as a temporary solution for those who have this problem [works neatly with 'whippy’ canes and crops as well].

IN SCENE

How often?

An average of one stroke every few seconds often proves best, with the exception of the spinning technique above, a fast version of which will seem constant. This 'blow-rest-blow’ allows processing time to feel each sensation, and this rhythm once established may easily be changed for effect. No doubt some people will differ with me on this, but I maintain that it is a suitable pace to maintain in many cases. Increased speed near the end is also popular, and pacing oneself early on will allow for that.

Scene Structure

Different people seek to give and receive different experiences. I offer two quite diverse scenarios to begin the discussion, perhaps others might volunteer their own favorite experiences or methods.

The slowly building endorphin encouragement

Start slowly and lightly, begin by placing the flogger on the skin, holding the tail tips in one hand and the handle in the other, moving slowly to and fro on the skin. Then a slow caress with the tips for a bit, using more and more of the tails in a soft motion, building the movement into a partial swing, then a full swing. Vary placement gradually, work up and down the body in a methodical pattern with few surprises. When changing to a 'harder’ flogger, repeat the above 'accustomization’ process in miniature, the ideal being that although the actual force applied increases markedly, the 'feeling’ remains much the same, matching the growing ability of the bottom to enjoy the increasing sensations. In a person looking for this, it is often possible to cause a 'flying’ sensation of complete relaxation, buoyed by trust and natural reactions of the body to slowly increasing stimulation, with little or no feeling of actual 'pain’.

The overwhelming sensation

More of a 'hard’ style than the above, to take a bottom past the 'comfortable’ area into one more likely to push her strongly. Useful for 'sensation overload’ and for those who seek a more 'painful’ feeling. Beginning as above, vary the speed and intensity of the blows much more, pushing more, being less predictable. Work upper body and lower at seemingly random times, not allowing the bottom to grow used to the sensation before moving on. When changing instruments, do so with less subtlety, let her feel the change as an increase in intensity. Should he enjoy both sting and thud, use these interchangeably as well, surprise is often more effective than merely increasing the power of blows. Emotional and other considerations [IMO]-

A few suggestions in this admittedly most subjective area. A flogging of even the gentlest sort may have exceptionally strong effects on both participants; leaving time and energy to 'wind down’ at the end of the session is, in my view, a requirement. Reassurance, a caress, or a simple touch during the flogging may do wonders also. Do not expect verbal responses if the flogging takes the bottom into new areas, he may not be possible to speak readily, and it may be that he will not be hearing well either. I find that flogging the front of the body, use of ear plugs and blindfolds, stringent bondage to open up delicate body areas, and making the bottom look at himself being flogged all are more 'serious’ and have more emotional impact than a 'simple’ flogging. Bruises may appear immediately, not appear at all, or suddenly appear after as much as a day or two, depending on the body concerned, and most people have some reaction to such marks, whether positive or not.

Philosophy

Flogging can be a powerful and loving act, top and bottom not separated by the flogger, but connected through it. While basic competence and sensitivity will increase the chances of this, caring does help a bit too.

collarncuffs.com/resources/doku.php?id=floggers

Caning

Caning is a form of corporal punishment (see that article for generalities and alternatives) consisting of a number of hits (known as “strokes” or “cuts”) with a single cane usually made of rattan, generally applied to the offender’s bare or clothed buttocks (see spanking) or hand(s) (on the palm). Application of a cane to the knuckles or the shoulders has been much less common.

Caning can also be applied to the soles of the feet (foot whipping or bastinado). The size and flexibility of the cane and the mode of application, as well as the number of the strokes, vary greatly—from a couple of light strokes with a small cane across the seat of a junior schoolboy’s trousers, to 24 very hard, wounding cuts on the bare buttocks with a large, heavy, soaked rattan as a judicial punishment in south-east Asia.

The thin cane generally used for corporal punishment is not to be confused with a walking stick, sometimes also called (especially in American English) a “cane” but which is thicker and much more rigid, and more likely to be made of stronger wood than of cane.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caning

Flogging

A flogging scene doesn’t have to be ‘heavy’ or risky in order to be erotic, and most such scenes involve no legal, health or safety problems. This note concentrates on best practice and what can go wrong. This is not intended to scare anyone away from an activity that can provide a great deal of mutual pleasure and satisfaction. Whether you pick up a whip intending to titillate your partner with a few light strokes or are hoping to push his limits and give him a scene of a lifetime, sensible precautions will help you avoid illegal acts, injury and unintentional pain.

Easy sanitary procedures can virtually eliminate the chances of

transmitting infectious diseases via flogging equipment.

The recommendations given here are deliberately quite conservative.

You may witness someone “break the rules” without problems, or have done so yourself. There’s also a slight chance that you could get hurt, or hurt someone else, even if you follow every rule. Safety is never absolute. We are dealing in probabilities here. The “rules,” which are based on the experience of many people over many years, as well as on current medical knowledge, are intended to minimise risk for most people in most scenes most of the time.

Flogging terminology is often imprecise. As used in these notes, flogging means hitting with a whip, cat, or any other implement having one or more flexible lashes. Whip is occasionally used loosely as a generic term for all flogging implements but usually refers only to implements with a single lash. Cat refers to multi lashed implements whose tails are braided and flogger to multi lashed implements whose tails are flat and unbraided. As far as safety is concerned, belts and straps are very much like floggers – just don’t hit with the buckle. Hitting with a paddle, cane, truncheon or other relatively inflexible implement is different from flogging and raises issues not covered by this note, though what is said here about safe areas to hit and about bruises is also applicable.

Playing safe

A stationary target is easier to hit accurately than a moving one, so it is usually preferable for the bottom to be restrained during a flogging. While many of us have an image of flogging that involves the bottom tied standing up, it is easier for most bottoms to sustain a long scene if their weight is supported in some way. A St. Andrew’s cross or A-frame tilted off the vertical can be very comfortable, as can being restrained horizontally on a bed or table. Kneeling with the chest and head supported on a bed, bench, chair, etc. is also a safe and comfortable position, particularly for ass floggings. Any setup for flogging should include sufficient lighting so the top can see where he’s hitting and the precise effect of his blows. If the light distracts the bottom, use a blindfold or hood, but never risk doing a flogging in inadequate light. Before the scene, it is important to agree a stop word or signal which the bottom can use to stop the scene completely and immediately. Also, most experienced whipmasters put a kidney belt (a weight lifter’s belt) on the bottom before any heavy flogging of the ass and back.

Even an expert can miss a shot, and knowing that this most vulnerable area of the bottom’s back side is protected will allow both top and bottom to relax and enjoy the scene more. If the upper back is going to be a major target, a heavy collar, the wider the better, is advisable as well, and a heavyweight hood can protect both the neck and the head. Some bottoms may be less nervous about a flogging or whipping if you leave them at least partially clothed. Clothing can absorb some of the force of the blows and most of the sting (and the cutting potential) of thin whips, as well as protecting against stray blows to areas that should not be hit.

Depending upon individual preference, anything from T-shirt and briefs to denims to full leather may be worn. A leather waistcoat can make it a lot easier for an inexperienced bottom to take a back flogging. Leather chaps can be a good protection for vulnerable parts of the legs as well as framing the ass and making it a better target. Leather jeans can make even a heavy ass whipping tolerable for a novice. It’s a trade off, however, as there are real disadvantages to flogging a clothed bottom. For one thing the top has to swing harder to give enough force to his heaviest blows (some may enjoy being able to “work up a sweat” with less fear of damaging their partners). Also, without being able to see the effect of your blows – reddening of the skin, visible cuts, bruises – it can be harder to pace the scene. And, rough fabric and hard leather can wear away the ends of a fine flogging implement!

How to hit

The cardinal rule is learn to hit where you aim. Most of the accidental injuries in flogging occur because the top did not have enough control to hit the part of the body he was aiming at and hit some off limits area instead – or in addition (as when a whip wraps around the torso). Good flogging technique requires extensive practice on an inanimate object, such as a pillow, teddy bear, hanging towel or piece of carpet, or upholstered chair: anything that can absorb the blows without damage yet also show where they landed. And, you’ll need to practise with each flogging implement you want to use. The many kinds all handle differently; no one can achieve acceptable accuracy with unfamiliar equipment. Although anyone can miss a stroke occasionally, until you can hit a precise target area with virtually every swing, you have no business using a whip on a person.

As a corollary, hit with just the tip of the lash or tails, not the full length. (The exception is when you use a short cat or flogger and are skilled enough to make the whole length of the tails land where you want them to – something virtually impossible to do when the tails are longer than, say, 2 feet.) For one thing, the end of a whip, cat, or flogger is easier to control than its body, and for another, if you try to land its body in a certain place on your bottom, the tip is almost certain to wrap around and hit him somewhere else out of sight. And because the tip travels faster than the body, when it wraps it will hit much harder than the blow from the body of the whip on the side of his body that you can see.

The result will usually be much more pain than you intended, often in a part of his body that you shouldn’t be hitting at all (such as the side of the rib cage), and you could damage a vital organ in the process. To avoid the spine when you’re flogging the back, just land the tip of your implement on one side of his back or the other don’t try to lay it across the whole width. Don’t worry if you trail the whip across his spine as you draw it back, as long as the primary blows avoid it. Causing cuts, scrapes, and bleeding is illegal, and can usually be avoided, or at least minimised, by limiting the force of your blows, particularly with whips that can cut or scrape the skin easily, and by not hitting an already bruised or lacerated area again. (Some tops immediately bandage/put a plaster on every cut they notice, both to protect it and to help them remember not to hit the same spot again.) In general, you are most likely to break the skin if you hit hard again and again in the same places, least likely if you distribute lighter blows over a wider area. But a lighter, well distributed flogging that lasts a long time can have a cumulative effect in terms of pain and stimulation very similar to that of a heavier, more concentrated flogging.

Where to hit

Hit only well padded areas of the body. The more muscle and fat covering bones, ligaments, nerves, major blood vessels, and organs, the better. People differ, obviously, in how well padded they are, and the only universally safe target areas are the buttocks and the thighs (especially on the rear below the buttocks). Within any particular bottom’s limits, these are the areas where you can strike hardest and longest.

The upper back is a safe target area for moderate flogging on most men. You can go heavier on someone with a very muscular back or someone who’s toughened his back through previous floggings over the course of years. The application of witch hazel over a period of time will toughen the back. Avoid flogging someone’s back if he’s skinny and the bones are very prominent, or at least go very lightly. The upper chest (the pectoral region), like the upper back, is an area where some enjoy being flogged while others cannot tolerate it at all. Go very lightly until you’ve gauged his tolerance, and never flog this area as heavily as the buttocks or thighs. The soles of the feet, the calves, and the cock and balls can usually take a light flogging without damage, though individual tolerance varies. Remember that the feet are full of bones and nerves, the calves carry major nerve channels and blood vessels, and the genitals contain many delicate structures. The abdomen (including the chest below the nipples) should almost always be avoided, the exception being when the bottom is a bodybuilder who has exceptionally strong musculature in that area.

Certain areas should be avoided absolutely, including the face, the neck, the joints, the hands, the lower back (just above the buttocks), the sides of the torso (armpits to waist), and most of the legs and feet (excepting only the calves and soles as noted above). When flogging the back, the spine should never be a target and should be avoided as much as possible. Incorrect flogging technique, or simply a missed shot, can result in damage to parts of the body that should not be involved at all, such as the eyes and the rest of the face, the nerves and blood vessels in the joints (especially the elbows and the knees), the spine, and internal organs (especially the kidneys). Damage in these areas can be so serious, even life threatening, that you should not think in terms of minimising it. Rather, make every effort to avoid it altogether.

During a scene

Always pay attention to what you’re doing and the effects of your blows. Check for cuts and developing bruises, and avoid striking those areas again. Even if you think you’re not wrapping, check the bottom’s other side from time to time to be sure. The bottom, too, should remain aware of where he’s being hit and how hard – not just the overall effect – so he can let the top know if he’s missing targets or exceeding limits. Of course, neither partner can keep a clear head if he’s under the influence of drugs or alcohol. If you make a mistake and hit harder than you intended, acknowledge the slip for what it was and re-establish rapport with your bottom by touching or talking to him. An error need not “blow” the whole scene – no worthwhile bottom will panic because you’re not perfect, but he may need reassurance that you know what you’re doing and are in control. If a bottom feels a top is incompetent or is exceeding his limits and won’t stop, he could easily panic or be terrorised. Such emotional wounds may make it difficult for the bottom to enjoy subsequent S/M action, and they can even generate psychic stress that impairs other areas of his life. If he wants to quit the scene and the top doesn’t, it’s the top’s responsibility to persuade – not bully – him into continuing. Anything else is brutality, not consensual S/M. If you feel sure that he can take more, see if he’ll let you continue with a different type of flogging implement, a different target area, or a slower pace and lighter blows. Such measures can help him recover from a premature “overload” and get into the scene again. You can build to a new peak later, or simply continue until you can end the scene at your initiative. Bottoms can push or exceed a top’s limits too, both need to know when to say “enough.”

Dangers

Although an erotic flogging is rarely bloody, (and thus clearly illegal), many kinds of flogging implements can open the surface of the skin, either by cutting or scraping previously undamaged skin or by causing the weakened skin over a bruise to break. Thin whips such as bullwhips, tightly braided cats, and thin tailed quirts are most likely to cut, nylon tipped whips and rubber floggers to scrape (abrade), and heavy, wide tailed rubber or leather floggers and cats to bruise, but similar effects can also be caused by
other implements.

The chief danger from breaking the skin is infection. For the bottom, the most serious risk is becoming infected with a disease through blood or colourless lymph body fluid, which can carry HIV and other viruses, left on the flogging implement from a previous scene, if it was inadequately cleaned or not cleaned at all. Less serious, is that the open wound is vulnerable to airborne bacteria as well as contaminants spread by the top’s hands or his own, causing the wound to fail to heal or heal properly. Infectious agents in the bottom’s system might be transferred from an open wound to the flogging implement, where they could be picked up later by the top, or by other bottoms if it is not cleaned before reuse.

The possibility of infection with HIV, hepatitis or other communicable diseases via a flogging scene must be taken seriously but should not be exaggerated to the point of paranoia. In most cases only a tiny amount of blood or lymph is exuded, and even less is actually picked up by the business end of the flogger, cat or whip.

Moreover, the HIV microbe in particular dies quickly when exposed to air, though hepatitis viruses and some others are much hardier. If you follow reasonable precautions in using and cleaning flogging equipment and use standard first aid procedures in treating whatever wounds do occur, the risk should be remote or non existent. Whip cuts can cause scarring. While unwanted scarring can be reduced by proper care for wounds, the risk cannot be completely eliminated in any especially heavy scene.

First aid

Even in a very heavy scene, blood flow from a whip cut or scrape should stop by itself in a few seconds. If it doesn’t, press on the wound, using a sterile gauze to keep blood off your hand. After blood flow has stopped, clean the wound and skin around it with sterile gauze soaked in Betadine (the best choice but will stain brown), or dilute Hydrogen Peroxide. Alcohol is not an adequate disinfectant in this case, and it will sting a lot more. Once cleaned, shallow cuts and most abrasions should not be bandaged (free air flow promotes healing) and should not require medical attention if kept clean. Do not apply greasy ointments. If there is any reason wounds can’t be kept clean without bandaging, bandage them loosely, using lint free gauze pads.

Bruising may not develop until well after a scene is over, and any flogging implements will not cause bruises in any case. (Bruising is most likely to be caused by implements that land with a “thud” rather than a “crack,” such as a very heavy cat as well as rigid, blunt instruments like nightsticks or truncheons. These do little or no damage to the surface skin but crush deeper tissue and the vessels running through it.) Small bruises do not need any special attention, though some think a light rubbing with Vitamin E oil can reduce pain and promote healing. For larger bruises apply an ice pack to reduce swelling, followed by Vitamin E oil. Do not use heat, as this could increase internal bleeding and make things worse.

Cleaning up

The business end of flogging equipment should be cleaned religiously after every scene to kill any bacteria or viruses they may have picked up. Do not use the same implement on different bottoms in the same scene – even if there is no visible bleeding. Small cuts and scrapes can exude colourless lymph body fluid before they start bleeding (if at all), and lymph can carry HIV and other viruses. Use latex gloves when cleaning equipment that was used in a bloody scene.

At a minimum, after a light to moderate scene with no visible bleeding or surface “sweat” raised on the bottom’s back (which might be lymphatic secretions), spray or soak the tips or ends of your whips, cats, floggers, etc. for several minutes with Hydrogen Peroxide, wipe away the excess with clean paper towels, and let them air dry for at least a few hours before reuse (preferably overnight or longer – 36 hours). Just dabbing or wiping your equipment with disinfectant isn’t enough, particularly with braided whips, because microbes can lodge in cracks and crannies. Rubber and plastic whips and floggers can be cleaned with a bleach solution (10 parts water to 1 part bleach is adequate). Leather equipment will have to be reconditioned with Lexol, saddle dressing or hide rejuvenator, after it’s dry.

After a heavy flogging and whenever blood is drawn, the cleaning procedure recommended by most respected whipmasters adds another step: First thoroughly scrub the ends – and any other soiled parts – of the implements with water and a foaming cleanser (such as Simple Green, a US cleanser) or soap (Lux soap flakes dissolved in water at half normal strength) using a hard-bristled brush (such as a hard toothbrush), to clean out any crannies. Rinse. Then spray or soak for several minutes with Hydrogen Peroxide as above, air dry, and recondition. Both cleaning steps can be repeated several times for greater safety. An implement that draws a tiny amount of blood can be made safe for reuse on another person if the procedure above is followed, but a whip that cuts someone’s back to shreds should probably be reserved for future use on that person alone even after cleaning.


HITTING THE MARKX marks the spots where you shouldn’t flog

smgays.org/info-sheets/using-floggers

Giving Spanks: The Basics of Spanking

Spanking is a common activity in the BDSM world and possibly one of the most common practices in the non-BDSM world. I remember hearing about it when I was a teenager. Even then (we’re talking around 1980), it was considered kind of adventurous, but not aberrant or even particularly noteworthy, just….spicy. Lots of people enjoy some ass swatting now and then- playfully, sexily, intensely or all of the above. Spanking is lovely for the intimacy of the hand-to-body contact, as opposed to implement-to body contact. It’s also got the kick of being kind of evocative for many of us. Even if you weren’t spanked as a child, we’ve seen so many images of spanking that’s it’s iconic for us and can evoke a sense of power exchange quickly and easily. In other words, because it has that subtle or not so subtle association with adult-child dynamic, it packs a simple yet powerful psychological punch that can be quite elegant.



If you don’t know what I mean, take a moment…close your eyes…

Imagine, if you will…

…being bent over someone’s knee or a kneeling bent over a chair. Imagine your pants are taken down, your skirt lifted up, or your underwear pulled aside (wedgies go well with spanking). You’re waiting, because you know it’s coming, but you don’t know when. You feel vulnerable, exposed, anticipating and dreading all the same time. Your spanker is talking to you, perhaps telling you why you’re being spanked, perhaps telling you why it doesn’t matter why, that they’re doing it for the best reason ever- because they can. Perhaps certain body parts are beginning to drool a little. Sexually excited or a little scared? If you’re not sure, you’re certainly not alone.
Of course, you may be the spanker or spankee in this scenario and it doesn’t automatically follow that the dominant is giving the spanking and the submissive is receiving.

Though if someone in the scenario is saying, “because I can”, then it’s a good bet that that’s the dominant. The foregoing is a good example of the differences between topping and dominating.

But it’s Just Spanking! Why Do I Need Pointers?

One of the great things about spanking is that it’s a wonderful activity for those times when you have nothing else….(wait for it)…to hand. You don’t need any special tools, just your hands and a bottom to put them on, along with some basic safety tips. Spanking might be considered basic, but still, if you spank someone hard enough in the right spot, or more accurately the wrong spot, you can hurt them in the not-good way.

And that’s not-good. There’s ouchy-hurty and then there’s injury-hurty. Typically (but definitely not always) we want the ouchy-hurty.

Some Basic Techniques

You do not have to have someone over your lap while you sit in a chair. This might be one of the most common positions we think of, but it’s not the most comfortable. It’s great for short term, but if you want a long leisurely spankathon, this position will get uncomfortable quick. Something to keep in mind. Some other positions I’ve used are:

• Submissive standing up, bent over with hands on the back of a chair, bed, tail gate, kitchen sink or anything the right height, while I’m standing next to or behind them. This is a fun position for walking around to their face and seeing how they’re doing/giving them the evil eye, as the urge strikes.
• Submissive kneeling on the floor, bent over a chair seat or anything else low enough, me sitting on a chair or kneeling near them. Having some kind of cushion for knees may be crucial.
• Sitting on a bed or floor with my submissive stretched out across my lap. This position is likely to be the most comfortable and so will work well when you want an extended session. You’ll be pinned though, so try to have things nearby that you might need. Or have your submissive fetch for you.

Can you think of others?

There’s nothing wrong with having someone in an uncomfortable position, as long as they don’t have a bad back, knee injury, or something like that. As a rule of thumb remember that the more “discomfort factors” they have to deal with at once, the quicker they’ll max out. That’s fine if that’s what you want. But if you want a long, savory spanking scene, a more comfortable position for both of you will make that more likely.

The General Impact Play Safe Zones Apply

Specifically, these areas are off limits: the lower back and kidney area, knees and elbows, particularly the soft underside, wrists, neck and head, the stomach. Face is okay with much caution, but I recommend studying up on slapping before attempting face strikes. There are special considerations you should know about. CBT (cock and ball “torture”) is another topic and has it’s own risks. When spanking, it’s best to avoid the testicles in general. The rule of thumb is, nowhere right over bone and not where nerves and/or veins are near the surface of the skin.

Actually, all the previously mentioned “off limit” areas can have things done to them, but only for advanced players who understand the increased risk and can proceed accordingly. In general, steer clear of them because striking there, even spanking, can cause serious injury. As with anything that you’re trying for the first time or with someone new to you, start slower/less intense until you feel more confident about your aim, strength of swat, etc. Also, check in with your bottom a bit until you feel like you have a good sense of how intense it feels for them. This will enable you to have more control over how things go in the scene and that’s always a good thing.

Let’s Get Spanking!!!

So where can you spank?

The butt. We’re done here, right?

Well  maybe you’ve noticed that there’s a lot to a butt. Yes, the fleshy pad over the glutes themselves, but also what’s known as the “sweet spot”, which is that area right where the butt cheek meets the upper thigh; the inner thighs (so fun!) and the sides of the hips where it’s fleshy. We’re mostly talking about butt spanking here, but you can definitely spank breasts, labia and penis shaft (you probably want to have the penis-sporting-person facing you for that one if there are testicles and you want to avoid them, which you should unless you’ve studied up on that and gotten consent).

As with any S/m, warming up the skin and ramping up gradually are good if you don’t want your bottom to tap out in a short amount of time. Changing it up, taking little breaks, massaging the skin or lightly brushing it with your fingertips in between rougher swats is all good stuff. It will give you a chance to make intimate contact, give your bottom a break and let you keep playing longer. I sometimes like to keep a little ice handy. Once the skin is reddening and sensitive, little things can elicit wonderful reactions. Running fingernails, metal claws, a fork, something soft and furry- things like that can be fun. Try some different things and see how it goes.

Hey, Wait a Minute… That Hurts!

If you’re like me, it could be that spanking hurts your hands after awhile. I have two techniques for working around this: 1) wear thin gloves that feel natural (so as to keep as much of the feel of skin-on-skin as possible, for both me and my bottom and 2) have a paddle, hair brush, wooden spoon or other close range impact implement handy so I can give my hands a break when I need to and still be able to keep striking if I want to. This has the added advantage of changing up the sensation for the bottom, which is sometimes a great thing. The bottom line is, if I want to last longer as the spanking top, then I need some ways to lessen the intensity for my own hands. If I don’t I’ll just have to quit sooner.

The other way to avoid hurting your hands is to refrain from spanking someone. It’s not something I do super often, but I do like to have it in my repertoire once in awhile, sometimes as a reward, particularly if it really ramps up the D/s dynamic for me and my submissive psychologically.

Yes, It’s Only Spanking, But Still…

Remember, for the same reason spanking can have such an elemental psychological charge, it can also be a hard limit for some people. It may be just too reminiscent of a parent child relationship, it could be that someone has traumatic memories associated with spanking, etc. It doesn’t really matter why; if it’s a hard limit, it’s a hard limit. Don’t ever try to talk someone out of a hard limit. Spanking might seem trivial to you and/or be your very favorite thing, but what constitutes trivial and too intense is different for everyone. And a hard limit is a hard limit.

Marking is also a hard limit for some folks. Even if you don’t hit hard, some people bruise very easily. It can’t always be avoided, but it’s a good thing to cover in your negotiations- how do they feel about marks and if they’re okay with them, where on there body?
You can add some role play in conjunction with your spanking or not. You can try some on-the-spot spankings in some semi-public areas. Even pulling over for a few at the side or the road and having your bottom present tail can be fun. Bare skin, through clothes, it’s really up to you. That should be enough to get you started with some more in depth spanking or take it to the next level.

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